Serial Number On Jc Higgins Shotgun
A co-worker recently inherited a JC Higgins model 20 (or 200?) 12ga pumpgun from his father, and had no use for it, and offered to sell it to me for $75.We went to his car, he opened the trunk, and I examined it. It looks like a '60s model. Really ugly, with a hideous contraption on the end of the barrel that looks like a muffler (early version of a compensator I guess) Diarrhea-brown stocks and it'll only take 2 3/4' shells.But it's in as-new condition, and the price is certainly right. Right now, I need another gun like I need another hole in the head, so I don't need it.Any of you all ever heard of a JC Higgins? Are they built well, and will they stand up to shooting lots of birdshot in the field?
2015-4-8 Jc Higgins badge numbers I've had my grandpa's JcHiggins bike for quite awhile but haven't got around to restoring it yet. It has a tag and not stamped # on the bottom of the crank housing. 505 272 is in the space for the model, AOSO 7117 seems to be the serial number. I recently inherited a JC Higgins / Sears & Roebuck shotgun that was one of my grandfather's old guns. Before I put it in my safe, I tried to find the serial number to document in my records just in case it ever gets stolen.
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Buy or pass it up? (It'll be used for a 'beater' gun, shooting quail & grouse etc. Allready have a HD & turkey SG)Thank you.
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Returned from my co-worker's house a couple of hours ago -75$ and the new shotgun. Tore it all apart & detailed-cleaned it. As ugly as it is, it seems like a decent gun.
Action is butter-smooth with no sloppiness.The choke is a pretty scarey set-up. It's called a 'Power pack' The shot/wad charge leaves the barrel, jumps a 1' gap, and hits the choke, which screws into the end of the baffle.Never seen this kind of choke:While cleaning it, I sent my sis to Wally-World with $20 to get their 100 round value packs of el-cheapo shells. She came back with 20 gauge, not 12Another interesting thing: No serial number. Must be pre 1968 right?
Does your model have a round part in the bolt that matches up with a hole in the top of the receiver when the bolt is closed? Higgins has that feature. If yours is like mine, you might want to consider using a Dremel tool or other hand tool to make the slot in the shell lifter into one long, continuous opening - that's because if you don't push shells completely into the magazine, they will pop back out of the magazine and lock up the action. Then you have the tricky task of pushing the live round into the magazine by prying something between the shell lifter and the receiver. By the way, with the lock-up mechanism that I describe above, the action seems very solid. Sorry, you lost me on the shell-lifter.When the slide is in the lock-up position (all the way forward) the shell lifter is out of the way; tucked-up against the bolt.
Cycled some shells threw it tonight, all seems well. Will shoot it in the morning.Still trying to figure this out:IMGswitch that keeps the shells from loading into the chamber.
Can't figure out the point in this. I guess it's so if you're bird hunting, and see a deer, you can hit the switch, shuck out the chambered birdshot, and plop a slug into the chamber. (??) Any guesses on why the switch is there?